Northern Ireland 2024….The Causeway Coast
Pete Thorn’s account of another sea kayaking adventure!
We woke to hear the small tents flapping and considered briefly getting out into the cold morning. Another challenging day lay ahead for sea kayaking in Northen Ireland. It was June, heading towards the longest day but it was still winter there. The planning for this trip had been basic. Buy some maps, book the ferries and then adapt to conditions. The coasts in Northern Ireland face north and east, so should be fairly protected from the prevailing SW winds. However, strong N and NW winds prevailed, bringing semi-arctic air flow. For the first week, the whole of the north coast was out of bounds. It was coats and hat time. Full winter thermals were needed on most days.
The trip began when two vans set off on 2nd June at around 06.00, to get ahead of the holiday traffic. This worked well and we landed in Kirkcudbright, just over the Scottish border by late afternoon. The campsite was busy with twenty Dutch motorhomes, on their way to Gretna. Shops were a short walk away and we liked the broad streets and interesting shops. The following morning, we drove to Cairnryan for the ferry crossing. Then the fun began of finding a campsite south of Belfast. We had booked a farm campsite near Ballycastle, just local to the Causeway Coast. But stormy conditions meant it was pointless to base ourselves there, until the weather changed. Maria worked the internet on her phone and eventually we camped at Meelmoor, just below the Mourne Mountains. The site faced south to a dramatically close view of the Mourne Mountains, easily accessible for evening walks. The farmer had prepared a vast site, but only the lower part was flat. There was one other camper. The facilities were OK but not clean. It was £12/night, collected in cash by the characterful retired farmer on his quadbike.
Next day we reckoned the local coast would be sheltered from the NW wind as the coast was SE facing, running south from Newcastle. We planned an out and back trip, with easy access from a beach and free parking. However, the wind was slewing round to follow the coast and we zipped along. We stopped after five km, concerned about the stiff paddle back. Mike was having neck and back pain problems.
After a conflab, we decided to split the group. Clive and Maggie offered to paddle back to collect the vehicles. They did this really well in one hour forty. The rest of us carried on to Annalong, with increasing wind, gusting over twenty knots. Across the last bay it came from the side. Non-rudder boats struggled with holding direction. We arrived on a deserted slipway and established phone contact with the drivers. The pub was shut but we found coffee at the local shop. On reflection, we could have all pressed on to Annalong and hitched back for the vehicles or tried to find a taxi, but the decision we took worked well.
The following day, conditions hadn’t changed. It was blowing F5, gusting 6. We checked out Carlingford Lough for a downwind paddle. In the event, just Maggie and I launched from Greencastle Point to be blown through moored boats and in front of the vehicle ferry. The wind was from the right, so Maggie experimented with the skeg to control the Explorer. The Pace 17 was easier with its rudder. We shot round Cranfield Point with the ebbing tide and then enjoyed a tail wind all the way to Kilkeel. As a short swell built up, we were able to surf. The port is a busy fishing hub, so vessels such as kayaks are banned. The team met us to assist an awkward carry up zig zag steps to the car park. A short trip but all we could devise in the circumstances. We moved to a nicer NT campsite at Castlewade where a neat deal on price was negotiated for two nights.
On the 6th,, conditions improved and we set off to paddle the Strangford Narrows. The huge Strangford Lough’s narrow entrance admits and releases up to 350 million cumecs of water, resulting in flows of 7.5 knots. With varying depths, significant disturbance occurs in places, with boils and whirlpools on big tides. Much planning by Maria worked out a timescale where we went into the Narrows with the tide, stopped for lunch and then rode the ebb for the return. Launching from Ardglass, the trip would cover 30km. Mike was still unfit to paddle, but went walking and did 25,000 steps! With a following wind and weak tidal flow, we took just an hour to reach the entrance.
Our first objective was the Angus Rock lighthouse, which promised a possible landing. We made it to Angus Rock across strong diagonal flows. After taking stock in the shelter of the Rock, we set off and were immediately into swirling boils and suddenly emerging whirlpools. It was unsettling but everyone was upright. The disturbance soon subsided and we cruised on with strong tidal assistance. The much-feared Routen Wheel of whirlpools was absent when we landed for lunch as the tide was turning. Soon the ebb got going and we returned, through less challenging flows. At Sheepfield Harbour, we took a break to climb up for a great view and a strange but recent shrine. A memorable day involving a six-hour trip.
On Friday we needed to be off the camp site and no other sites could be found for small tents. Any sites close to Belfast are only interested in caravans, motorhomes and glamping. We packed the boats for an overnight trip and launched from Killyleagh onto the vast Strangford Lough. Kayak access was easy and safe parking available on a quiet road. A short paddle took us to Salt Island, where free camping is allowed on this NT island. A bothy is available at £120/night but it looked shabby and neglected. We rang the warden to check if it was booked by another group for the weekend, happily not. There was sheltered camping in front of it so six tents sprang up. It was clear that this side of the island would seriously dry out to mud, so we paddled to the other side to stash the boats and walked across to the camp. We had paddled round a few nearby islands before the water drained away. Maggie drifted solo to bird watch and soak up the remote feel. Back at camp, there was an established fire pit so Maria soon had a small cooking fire going and showed us how to balance pans. We all got thoroughly smoked. Whisky was taken in tiny shot glasses, from three different bottles. Access to the promised earth closet loo was not available so people borrowed Maggie’s trowel and looked for solitude.
Saturday dawned with no let-up in the nagging NW wind. A modest trip was planned up past Killyleagh and round Taggart Island. Pleasant but not really what we came for. On return to camp, we found three families in process of arriving in a collection of craft. A small dinghy with electric motor brought four small children. Other adults arrived in an open boat and two soggy inflatable kayaks. These did not seem up to the task of crossing such open water in windy conditions. They had expected to camp where we were, but had to move up the hill to an alternative site. They were lovely people, rather under-equipped. In the morning, we were woken at 05.00 by the families passing through our camp, intent on an early escape ahead of forecast stronger winds. We broke camp too, and trekked across the island with our bulging Ikea bags to pack the boats. As we launched at 08.45, all the visitors had left except Lucy and one other, who lacked lifejackets. One of the others returned with lifejackets and we all set off at the same time. The double was overloaded and very slow so we offered a tow which was gratefully accepted. Later, after a splendid snacky meal at the Piknik café in Killyleagh, we headed north to Trench Farm campsite near Ballycastle. This would give access to the fabled Causeway Coast, as the weather improved. The site was wind exposed but had good but small facilities. I managed to get the Vito stuck in very soft ground in the first five minutes. Farmer Terence came to the rescue with a large tractor.
It was Monday and even windier. No paddling was possible so we spent the day exploring the coast by van. There is a series of tiny harbours and ruined castles along this rugged coast. The famed Carrick-a-rede rope bridge led across to a steep rocky island. NT members were free. All others paid £15.50. As we queued to cross the bridge, it was closed due to the wind being over 35mph, so refunds all round. The following day was still very windy. We devised a paddle from Portmuck to Whitehead, a down-wind trip of 12km. It was blowing F5/6 and the start was dicey with rough water and onshore wind. With no get out until Whitehead it was deemed too risky. Three set off in Clive’s van to be tourists at the Giant’s Causeway.
Maggie, Maria and I drove round to Whitehead to find something to paddle. We paddled out of the sheltered harbour, across the bay to Black Head, where the full force of the wind was met. We punched out through steep waves before turning to surf back. And repeat. It was good fun and tested our boat control.
On Wednesday the wind finally relented. Sunshine was promised in the afternoon. Mike was still unable to paddle a long trip so elected to see us go past the Causeway from the fabled but crowded hexagonal pavements. We launched at Portballintrae, where there was free parking and an easy launch. Then on to this iconic coastline, past the NT’s money machine of the Giant’s Causeway. 
The product of ancient volcanic activity, a series of distinct bays feature towering cliffs with the basalt columns. The visited part is a small proportion as the bays repeat for miles. Much of it has remote feel,with deep caves featured and clear water. Swirls of a spaghetti like seaweed created artistic patterns. An active swell held interest. We stopped at Ballintoy to meet Mike. Clive got off to recover his van while the rest of us pressed on towards Ballycastle.
We passed the rope bridge at Carrick-a-rede, stopping briefly to paddle under the bridge and salvage three hats from the rocks, blown off tourist heads. Taking in all the exploratory ventures, we covered perhaps 28km. It was effectively two day trips in one.
Sadly, the next day was forecast to give heavy rain and something of a gale. It would be a wasted day. After discussion we agreed to use it as a travel day back to Cairnryan and look at a couple of days local paddling in Dumfries and Galloway.
We duly arrived in Kirkcudbright at the campsite in the rain. The person on duty was short of time and agreed a one night price /person of £11, but wasn’t bothered if we stayed extra nights! We stayed three. We were helped by access to a hut with electricity and water, so cooking became easier.
After putting up tents we headed into the soggy town in full waterproofs and soaked up some Guinness in a crowded pub.
On Friday we went to Brighouse Bay, where a sandy launch seemed possible. The nearby Dee estuary was a sea of mud at low tide. There was easy parking and loos but a long trolley drag to reach water. Clive and Mike elected to find a pub lunch, a tempting option. Four of us paddled out to the entrance through some rocks, expecting a head wind down the coast. This would enable a tail wind return. But it swung further south and up a notch, so was directly onshore. The sea was a lively confused chop. Any incident during the next 10km would have to be dealt with in moments before we became wrecked on rocks. The trip was reluctantly abandoned. We made do with surfing in the bay before lunch. We checked out a possible alternative launch round the corner in the estuary but at low tide it was acres of mud and a ‘private’ foreshore. We wearily dragged the boats back on trolleys into Brighouse Bay. Once on the water we bashed out through the waves and played around surfing back. Maggie tried the Pace 17. Steve looked good and in control. It was the best we could do in the circumstances and quite a lot of fun.
The Clive bus elected to return home on Saturday. They left around 07.00 but I was fast asleep. They had a miserable journey home in heavy rain and spray but made it safely. Great work Clive. Eventually we got our act together and set off again for Brighouse. The rain gave way and the wind lessened. We headed east round the headland into the Dee estuary. Some mild rock-hopping provided interest in composite boats.
We visited Little Ross island and roamed all over around its ruins, buildings and lighthouse. The path up to the lighthouse had a full display of Foxgloves. There were historic tales of a lighthouse keeper, murdered by his colleague. We cruised back in sunnier weather. Then fine coffees from the art gallery and a rummage in the excellent local book shop.
We washed up all the kit and swept out the van. It had been a good trip made challenging by unseasonal weather. Our team of six got on famously and adapted to conditions. The universal cry for next time was ‘somewhere warmer!’ On Sunday we left at 07.00 and arrived in Barnstaple at 16.00, a great result for 450 miles on busy motorways. I luckily was able to chill in the back of the van for most of the drive. Thanks to all.
Paddlers:
Clive Doe Delphin Euro blades
Maria Morgan Explorer LV Euro Blades
Steve Smith Virgo L Euro blades
Mike Tucker Scorpio L Greenland Stick
Pete Thorn Pace 17 Wings
Maggie Watson Explorer Euro blades
